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Growing Equipment

PostPosted: Thu Jan 14, 2010 12:41 am
by Ulmdorgr
This sticky is intended to document all pertinent information regarding the various equipment used in various situations when cultivating. This information will be updated as necessary, and is not specific to entheogens.

These situations depend on:
  1. The species of plant being grown.
  2. Whether the plant will be grown indoors or out.
  3. Excluding indoors; the climate where you will be growing (affected by water sources, altitude, etc.).

Note: Rootbound plants are a very common cause of dying plants (browning tips, no growth, etc.)!
Some may think that pots aren't a big deal, but they are! Depending on the species of plant you are growing, you will need to know about how they root (depth and width that they prefer) and if they enjoy prolonged wetness (Saintpaulia, African Violet, and Sinningia speciosa, Gloxinia, are two examples of species that prefer this). This second point may not be an issue with entheogenic plants.

Salvia, and most entheogenic plants, grow large like trees. Starting pots, for cuttings 1-4 inches in height, can be 2-6 inches for both width and length. At this stage, the height of the pot should be about 1/2 the size of the plant. The second pot should last up to maybe 3 feet tall plants, which means the pot should be about 12 inches in diameter, and 1-2 feet tall. Depending on the plant, this may be its final pot.

Remember that you should recycle the soil (take the plant out and put new soil in) once every year to make sure there's plenty of nutrients and eliminate fungus/bacteria that may have grown. I'm not sure how people with very large plants (e.g. 10 foot tall Salvia plants) cope with this; perhaps just use fertilizer?

Self-watering pots
Disclaimer: I have never seen or heard of anyone growing enthoegenic plants within self-watering pots.
For plants that prefer to "drink" from a basin (known as self-watering pots; again, African Violet is the best example that gardening shops will give you).

The most simple self-watering pot consists of a pot with drainage holes and a saucer underneath. If built correctly, any water in the saucer will be able to be absorbed back up into the soil. More elaborate models can include a two part set, where a pot is embedded within a larger pot. The inner pot acts as a regular pot, but must be made of a material that can absorb water (such as clay), while the outer pot is a reservoir basin. Using regular plants in a self-watering pot can be dangerous because of over-watering (some people re-fill the basin too quickly).

Most plants enjoy loose soil for their roots to dig through, but some grow well with more gravely (rocky) soil (Perlite simulates this). Kratom is an example of a plant that grows well in rocky soil.

Most people use 50-50 mixes of a loose medium with lots of nutrients. Mycorrhizae is a great addition for cuttings, as it stimulates root growth. Manure of sorts is a good, organic fertilizer/soil additive.

I don't know much about soil, please help me expand this section by replying to this thread.

Fertilizers are necessary to give plants sufficient nutrients (nitrogen) and to help regulate the PH of the soil.

Some people like to use Fish Emulsions, which may be organic, however it is smelly and not recommended for indoor plants. Some use regular MiracleGrow. Some use manure.

Watering equipment
Can plants get too much water?

References: ... tions.html

Why does light matter?
Plants photosynthesize visible light within chlorophyll and carotenoids found within the thylakoid membrane of chloroplasts. Visible light falls within the 380-750Nm range. Depending upon the types of chlorophyll and carotenoids within a species, the plant with photosynthesize optimally with different levels of light.

Can plants get too much light?
Yes. The Light Saturation Point is a dangerous threshold to push for, because once reached, chlorophyll will die.

Types of lighting (see Grow light)

Setting up your lights
When using any lighting equipment, you must try to use as much of the light as possible. Since lighting sources tend to be omnidirectional, you will have to make sure they have clamps or fixtures.
Clamp info: ... -do-i.html

Necessary for to simulate the natural habitat of tropical plants (most entheogens).

Necessary for use with high intensity lights. Depends on your setup (specific lights and species, distance between light and plants, temperature of the enclosure or room).

For tropical plants, it is necessary to create a humid environment that simulates that natural habitat. This can be done through the use of a humidity dome (an enclosure), and by putting enough water into the air (misting the enclosure, evaporating water into the enclosure, or using a humidifier).

Humidity dome

Humidity regulation
As said above, you can either mist the enclosure yourself, which doesn't work well if its not air tight or in colder environments. Alternatively, you can use a humidifier. You can purchase these online ($50+), or make one yourself.

To make a humidifier, you must heat a source of water. An easy and safe way to do this is with an aquatic heater and a large jar of water (1-2 liters is fine). Place the heater in the jar, fill up the jar close to the brim, then make sure the heater is set to something above the conditions of the air (18-20 degrees above it). For tropical plants, this will be around 88 °F.

Rooting Hormone
If you plan on doing any rooting, that is, attempting to sprout roots out of a cutting, then you should get yourself a jar of rooting hormone. This will increase your success rate when receiving a cutting, and should speed up the growth process (less waiting and healthier plants).

Rooting hormone usually comes in one of two forms: powder, or liquid. The powder form seems to be easier to use - you simply dip the cutting's "root" into the powder and it get covered, then stick it into moist soil (some say it can also work when putting the cutting in a cup of water). The liquid form requires that the cutting be placed in soil before administration. Follow the directions on the product.

Example products (try to pick up something local, or visit a local nursery and ask questions): ... ucts/1087/ ... blrr8x37_b

Compost bin
It's always a good idea to provide your plants with cheap, highly nutritious fertilizer and soil. The following are ways to create a compost bin, for those of you who lack space:

PH tester
For testing the acidity of soil. PH testers come in a variety of models. Don't be afraid to branch out beyond garden-specific types of testers. You can use a pool PH testing kit by gathering runoff from a pot with holes in it. If you don't use a pot like this, then you can go with a model such as (note that this may be difficult to use; see product reviews): ... 478&sr=8-1

Moisture tester
For testing how moist the soil is. These may not work well with tropical (high moisture) plants. ... 510&sr=1-1

Used to increase the amount of CO2 in the water used in hydroponic settings. For entheogens, this may be particularly valuable when trying to get a cutting to root. Although this equipment is unnecessary for rooting, some claim it speeds up the process (which makes sense, given that plants need air to photosynthesize).

Re: Growing Equipment

PostPosted: Fri Jan 15, 2010 12:51 pm
by unstable
A few other ideas---heating, humidifier.

Re: Growing Equipment

PostPosted: Fri Jan 15, 2010 1:53 pm
by SF
Check out this Link here are some of the basic items you might need for cultivation.

i will add more later so people dont have to search for all the items on amazon

Re: Growing Equipment

PostPosted: Fri Jan 15, 2010 5:38 pm
by Ulmdorgr
SF (and future admins), feel free to edit my post. We each have only so much energy to spare.

Re: Growing Equipment

PostPosted: Wed Jan 20, 2010 11:17 am
by unstable

I'm looking at maybe investing in a cheap PH tester along with a soil moisture guage...then if all goes well I can setup a few different situations of PH/Moisture and actually get measurements off of them to share with everyone. Those might be a couple of things that could be added to accessories. ... 478&sr=8-1 - ph meter ... 510&sr=1-1 - soil moisture meter

Re: Growing Equipment

PostPosted: Wed Jan 20, 2010 1:29 pm
by Ulmdorgr
If you can throw some links my way it would make this collaborative effort much easier. Thanks.

Re: Growing Equipment

PostPosted: Wed Jan 20, 2010 10:52 pm
by Ulmdorgr
@Unstable: I've updated the accessories with those two products. I'd like you to document the packaging materials of those products (manual contents/diagrams) so we can better recommend them to our community.

Re: Growing Equipment

PostPosted: Thu Jan 28, 2010 5:07 am
by Chewy
Lights- The most energy efficent and the best absorbede by salvia is actally L.E.D.Looks like this.


The best way ive found for humidity is simple and cheap. I use a walgreens brand vaporizor. It produces hot steam. And keeps my chamber warm. I also blow in fresh air into the chamber to prevent any mold. Its a great system and would recomend it, im sure my plants would as well.

Re: Growing Equipment

PostPosted: Fri Jan 29, 2010 7:01 pm
by unstable
do you have any pictures of the entire setup? what's the story on the LED...links? cost?

Re: Growing Equipment

PostPosted: Sat Jan 30, 2010 3:53 am
by nothim

Re: Growing Equipment

PostPosted: Sat Jan 30, 2010 4:03 am
by nothim

Re: Growing Equipment

PostPosted: Wed Feb 03, 2010 9:10 pm
by Chewy
Wow, that was really interesting. Makes sense thou.

Led lights range from 100 bucks to 1000's. what do you want to spend, whats practical. I payed 90 bucks for that light you saw. It worked for 3 months and broke. The electronics in the box fucked up. I should have paid twice that and gotton a good one. Would pay off now, live and learn. Im at the stage were i just need to invest in a t5 system. we'll see how funds work out for me.

Re: Growing Equipment

PostPosted: Thu Feb 04, 2010 1:03 am
by nothim
why did you not pay for the fix up of the electronic board ?

Re: Growing Equipment

PostPosted: Thu Feb 04, 2010 12:51 pm
by Ulmdorgr
I posted a link in the original post to a $55 LED panel.

Re: Growing Equipment

PostPosted: Thu Feb 04, 2010 1:19 pm
by nothim