October 27th, 2009 by Salvia Fan

K2 Smoke Blends Are becoming very hard to find, stock up on it while you still can.

Reviews

K2 Review

By Alan G.

Review Two

By John T.

• body weight & gender: 160 lbs., male
• dose taken: full bowl, small bubbler
• route of administration: smoked
• Setting: in what environment it was taken.: home, couch + TV
• duration of main effects: 60-90 minutes
• main effects: euphoria, munchies, couch-lock, body relaxation
• side effects: none for me other than the occasional cough from smoking
• after effects: residual effects 60-90 minutes after main effects. relaxation, euphoria, can kinda feel it in eyes
• Rating OTf he Experience: absolutely love it
• addictive qualities / abuse potential: Same as cannabis, I would imagine. Likely a potential for psychological addiction, but not physical.any other valuable information: You can get Your Own K2 Here

Love it. I would imagine that the smoke is many times less harsh than smoked cannabis. The high reminds me of the high I would imagine a pure sativa to produce. Or like smoking kief from a grinder, hypothetically speaking. The pink variety is good, too.

I Found This Review Of All The Most Common Smoke Blends.

As You Can Tell K2 Summit(Yellow Line) Is The Best One Out Of All Votes. (142 Votes For K2 Summit)

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October 25th, 2009 by Salvia Fan

Smoke Blends have been around for a very long time. I am sure that you have heard of a few smoke blends before such as K2, or Spice Gold. These blends have similar effects and very pleasant to smoke on.

If your wondering like most people, Do these blends really work ? Yes, in fact they work really well. Some claim they effects are similar to cannabis having a 3 hour peek and lasting up to 6-8 hours. If you have to take drug test or don’t want to deal with the legality of smoking cannabis. You would defiantly appreciate these great Smoke Blends.

All the people over at bouncingbearbotanicals has a fine selection of smoke blends you can click here to check them out

Even though the manufacturer officially warns against human ingestion of these blends, it is usually smoked for its cannabis like effects. The effects of these blends are said to be caused by a mixture of synthetic cannabinoids. Every blend has a different feeling or effect.

For proof and more info check Wikipedia at this link here

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October 22nd, 2009 by Salvia Fan

I have always felt the effect of Salvia Divinorum to come on to fast for me. I am sure others feel the same way. Once i tried the quid method I knew from that point on, that this is the preferred method.

Smoking it feels like your being blasted into outer space with no time to think about it. So fast at times you don’t realize your there already.

As you may know the Mazatec Indians of Mexico Have been using the quid method for hundreds of years. I also hear of a method where they will take fresh leaves and grind them over a screen cloth, collect the juices into a wooden bowl. After juicing the leaves they would ingest the juices as a tea.

If you have tried the quid method you would know that the juices from the leaves being in your mouth turn to dark green that when you spit it out, it looks like green leaf slime.

The taste was never that bad in my opinion. I thought that it had a slight bitter taste. Some say it is different depending on the strain that your working with.

This strain I have a cutting of now is a Blosser strain. This strain has tons of tiny white hairs all over the surface of the leaves. The strain I used to grow, aka the one i used for the quid didn’t have any or very little hairs. So I know that there is a lot of things that come into play when experimenting with the different types of strains.

You may also use dried Leaves for the quid method. You would have to take the dried leaves and hydrate them in some cool water. I would suggest using bottled water because its a lot cleaner with no chlorine.

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October 22nd, 2009 by Salvia Fan

Salvia divinorum, Kratom, San Pedro Cactus and more
If you will be growing your own Salvia, you should read this. If you will not be growing your own, you may wish to skip this section.

Salvia divinorum is a semi-tropical perennial. That means that it can grow year after year, but only if it is not exposed to freezing temperatures. It is a green plant with large leaves and a distinctive thick, hollow, square green stem. It can grow several meters (yards) high if conditions are favorable. When it grows high enough, the branches will bend, or break, and may root if they come in contact with moist earth. Although Salvia divinorum can flower under natural lighting conditions, it almost never sets seed that will sprout. So the plant is almost always propagated by cuttings. The leaves are oval, weakly notched (serrated) and can be quite large (up to 9 inches in length). They are usually emerald green, but under some conditions, may be yellow-green or even yellow. They are covered with a fine coating of extremely short hairs (trichomes), giving the leaves a satin like velvety appearance in certain lights. The plants grow best in partial shade, in well-watered, but well-drained, soil. The roots must not be kept constantly soaked, or root-rot will set in and kill the plant.

Salvia divinorum can be grown indoors in any climate. It makes a beautiful house plant.

You can grow Salvia divinorum outdoors all year round if you live in a humid semi-tropical climate, with well-watered, but well-drained soil, with a high humus content. If you live in a colder or drier climate, you can still grow Salvia outdoors, weather permitting. But you may have to do it with some care, making sure it is protected from frost, watered frequently, and misted when humidity is low. Salvia will not live through freezing or drought. It can be grown outdoors in pots which can be brought indoors when it is cold (below 40 degrees Fahrenheit). That way it can be grown outdoors in summer and indoors in winter.

Salvia will tell you when it is getting too dry: its leaves will droop. Be sure to water it at the first sign of mild drooping–do not let the plant become limp. The soil should drain well but should be kept moist. If planting Salvia in pots, make sure the pot is large enough to allow the plant to grow well. Although your available space will limit possible pot size, use the biggest pot that is practical. It must have drainage holes. Placing gravel (or broken up pieces of crockery) in the bottom of the pot will help promote drainage and thus discourage root-rot. Most commercial potting soil will work well. Adding Vermiculite® or Perlite® to the potting soil is helpful but not essential.

Salvia will need fertilizer. Any good general-purpose fertilizer will work. Fish emulsion is a good organic fertilizer choice, but because it has a very unpleasant odor, it is suitable only for outdoor use. Satisfactory results can be achieved with chemical fertilizer products. Some of them are:

Scott’s® All-Purpose Plant Food (18-13-13) lightly sprinkled on the soil about once every six weeks. Miracle-Grow® (15-30-15) or MirAcid® (30-10-10) added to the water once a week (1/4 tsp. per gallon). Peter’s® Professional Soluble Plant Food (15-30-15) 1/4 tsp. to gallon of water once per week.

If growing indoors, take the plants outdoors when it is warm enough, and let rain fall on them. This will prevent mineral salts from building up in the soil and killing your plant

Salvia divinorum can do well in a variety of different lighting conditions. It does best with a few hours of partial sunlight a day. It can do well when grown indoors near a window. It can handle more sun if kept well watered and misted frequently. It can also handle moderately deep shade. When changing the lighting conditions or the humidity conditions your plants are exposed to, do so gradually. Given enough time, Salvia is very adaptable, but it may take weeks to get used to a new environment.

Many pests can attack Salvia. Whitefly is a big problem for greenhouse grown plants. Aphids, slugs, caterpillars, thrips, spider mites, and scale insects can also damage your plants. Root-rot and stem-rot can be problems. Fungal spots can appear on leaves. It is not known which plant viruses attack Salvia divinorum, but probably some do, as many attack other sages.

Aphids and scale insects can be removed with a cotton swab dipped in isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol.

Slug damage can be reduced by growing Salvia in pots on a raised deck or palette. Some may still get by and attack your plants. Keep an eye out for these slimy pests. One slug can eat an awful lot of Salvia! Beer can be used to attract and drown slugs. Set a saucer of beer in a slight depression in the ground; the surface of the saucer should be flush with the soil, so slugs can get in, get drunk, and drown.

Spider mites can be controlled by dissolving Castile soap in water and spraying the leaves, including the underside. Repeat at two-week intervals for three applications. Caution: there have been some reports of soap damaging leaves, so don’t use too much.

Your garden hose is your best friend in fighting most outdoor pests. Spray the leaves hard enough to blow the pests away, but not hard enough to damage the leaves. don’t forget to spray the underside of the leaves too. A fine mist nozzle works best for this.

Salvia divinorum is usually propagated by cuttings, not by seed. Cuttings may be rooted either in water or directly in soil. Here’s how:

ROOTING IN WATER:
Cut off a branch (4-8 inches long) bearing some leaves. Cut off the leaves that are attached to the lowest node on your cutting then immediately place it in about one and a half inches of water in a small water glass. Only one cutting is to be put in each glass, so if rot develops in one cutting it cannot spread to another.

It is best if the cutting is cut back to just below a node, since nodes are the places from which new roots are most likely to develop. While it is not necessary to make the cut here, doing so has the advantage that there will be no stem material dangling in the water below the node. This is important as the cut stem end is more likely to start to rot than is a node.

Make sure the cutting is made with clean shears, or a knife, so the cut stem does not get attacked by germs and fungi that could cause stem rot. Place it where it will get some filtered sunlight. Change the water daily. It may be a good idea to use cooled boiled water. If your water is chlorinated, boiling will drive off chlorine. Non-chlorinated water may be contaminated with plant disease germs, but boiling should kill these. Rooting in water is successful about 75% of the time (the rest of the time stem rot occurs and kills the cutting).

In two weeks roots will start to develop. When they are about 1/2-1 inch long, transplant to potting soil in a well-drained pot. Cover with a clear glass jar or clear plastic bag to serve as a humidity tent until the plant establishes its roots in the soil and appears vigorous (usually 1-2 weeks). Then gradually wean the plant from dependence on the humidity tent.

Some growers report that Salvia branches that break off spontaneously in summer are more likely to root successfully than those deliberately cut. Rooting in water outdoors may decrease the chance of stem rot occurring. apparently the UV light in unfiltered sunlight acts to kill germs or fungi in the water.

ROOTING IN SOIL:
Salvia can be rooted directly in soil. Materials needed:

* Potting soil.
* Two disposable plastic cups.
* Some Rootone® powder (this is a rooting hormone mixture that also contains a fungicide) it is available at most nurseries in the United States.
* A 1-gallon thin, transparent, polyethylene food storage bag.
* A rubber band.
* Water.

METHOD:
Punch some small holes in one of the cups for drainage. Fill the cup 2/3 the way up with potting soil. Using a pencil or a finger make a hole in the soil about 2 inches deep. The soil is now ready for your cutting. You must now prepare the cutting. With clean shears, cut off a length of stem from a healthy plant. Leave a few leaves (small ones) on top. Harvest the larger leaves from the cut-off stem. Immediately after cutting the stem, place it in clean water. Cut it back to just below a node, as roots will develop from the node. Keep the cut surface wet. Place the cut surface, and the stem for about 1 inch above the cut, into the rooting powder. Shake off the excess. Rooting powder is somewhat toxic, so wash your hands after handling it. Place the powder coated cutting in the hole in the soil. Gently push the soil around the cutting, holding it in place while filling in the hole. Water the planted cutting until some water runs out the drainage holes. Place the cup with the plant in it into the second plastic cup (which is there to catch any runoff water). You may want to put a small piece of wood or plastic in the bottom of the outer cup to act as a spacer. This allows enough space for excess water to drain. Place a 1-gallon clear plastic bag over the rooted cutting, using a rubber band to hold it in place. The rubber band should be outside the bag and the bag outside both cups. The Rubber band holds the bag against the cups. As the plastic bag acts to conserve moisture, frequent watering is not required. After several weeks you can transplant the now rooted plant to a larger pot.

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